It all depends on what you will be using them for but the Abu CT (non level wind) and CS (level wind) Mags are the most versatile reels I know of as far as all the ways they can be set up, not to mention they are the easiest conventional reels in the world to learn on IMO and will grow with you until you become one of the best casters on the beach. After working on them and using them over the years I've learned a few tricks for getting the most from these fabulous reels, here are a few of them.
Generally: If you will be throwing less than 1 ½ oz most of the time or you're new to conventional reels I would leave them set up pretty much the way they come from the factory. If you go under 1 oz often or are having problems with backlashes you might even install a brake block or two and put Red Label Rocket Fuel or Reel X in the bearings to help make them more controllable with the lighter weights. Throwing 1 ½ oz and up you may find you need to speed the reels up a little to suit your preferences. You will find the CT versions to be the faster of the two reels because they contain what is better known as a "speed bushing" in the left side plate and because the CS's are slowed somewhat by the L/W feature, so tune accordingly. Typically the CS Mags are more desirable for continuously throwing lures, plugs, etc. and trolling than are the non-level wind CT's because you don't have to level the line back on the spool yourself. The CT's are generally preferred for bait fishing and where casting distance is most important. The CT's also require a little less maintenance because there are fewer exposed parts.
Different bushings: This "speed bushing" of the CT's rides only on the inner race of the left side spool bearing, thus it has very little effect on spool speed when tension is applied. In fact, adding to much tension via the end cap spool centering adjusters can ruin the bearing(s). On the other hand, the CS's have a nylon LW gear inserted in the left end of the spool, the end of this gear rides against a flat brass bushing in the left side plate. When tension is applied via the end cap adjusters it slows the spool without hurting the bearings and becomes a third spool speed control like the other non-mag versions have as well.
Setting spool tension and centering the spool: When setting up these reels (and most any other conventional casting reel with cast controls) you want a very slight amount of lateral movement or "play" in the spool from side to side, better known as a slight "knock". As with the other Abu's with same side plates, you find this setting while centering the spool with the end caps. To center the spool (very important on L/W reels) loosen both end caps on the side plates so it allows plenty of lateral movement of the spool from side-to-side. Take note of the amount of the rim of the spool that's showing on either end where it meets the frame. Hand center the spool, then tighten the right side cap (handle side) until it just starts to move the spool to the left while you're gently pushing the spool to the right with your left hand. While still applying pressure to the right, back off on the right cap until the spool is perfectly centered. At this point you should still be able to slide the spool to the left unless you have the left side cap tightened too much. Assuming you still have plenty of play to the left, tighten the left side cap just until there is no play or lateral movement in the spool and back off just until you have that slight "knock" or slight amount of side-to-side "play" mentioned above.
Setting the tension reference ring: Once you have the spool correctly centered in the frame and have the ideal amount of play in the spool, you set the adjustable reference ring with the numbers on it (located on the left side plate under the end cap) to zero. In other words, you rotate the ring until the zero lines up with the arrow on the end cap. On the CT Mags, or other reels such as the Penn 525 Mag with a "speed bushing", this adjustment should not be changed once properly set. On the CS Mags, and other non-mag reels, you can go up to one full clockwise turn on the tension control to help slow the spool. If you have to go more than that then it's time to add more or heavier centrifugal brake blocks, heavier oil in the bearings or both. As with all reels, you should never go counter clockwise past zero, this only adds more slop or "play" in the spool and adds nothing to distance and can actually reduce it.
Magnet tuning: If you will be throwing 1 ¾ oz weights and up, with experience, you can easily go down to one magnet and stay with the yellow formula oil in the spool bearings if you are looking for maximum distance with the CS Mags. I leave in the top right magnet when I go down to one and the top two if I go with two magnets for a little more control. At a minimum, two magnets are really required for most experienced casters on the CT Mags when not using the centrifugal brake blocks. Note: There are no brake blocks pre installed at the factory and most folks don't install them, however there are two supplied in the bag with the tube of Yellow Rocket Fuel if you need them. You will find that the 5500's are a little more docile than the 6500's so you can be more aggressive tuning them, especially with the CS model.
Which magnets to remove, which ones to leave in: By leaving the top center magnet(s) in instead of the ones on either end you will retain more adjustment with your Mag slider than if you take them out and leave in the ones on the ends or shift the magnets to the ends. The reason is because the magnet holder tilts in and out on the Abu's instead of moving parallel with the spool when the mag control is adjusted. When you take out the top magnets leaving the ones on the ends you will not notice much difference from full on and full off as the magnets don't move as far away from the spool when the retainer tilts back. Thus, if you where to go down to only one magnet you will have the same amount of spool control (slowing of the spool) with the single magnet in the top location vs. an end location with the mag slider set full on, but will have a much faster spool in the full off position with magnet(s) in the top position. The farther you go out and down with the magnet placement on the retainer, the less the range of adjustment you will have with the slider. I hope this makes sense.
How to remove the desired magnets: Remove the left side plate but be careful when you remove the screws. The side plate is spring loaded so keep pressure on it, hold the spool upright with the left side plate on top. Once the screws are removed slowly lift up on the side plate and take note of how the parts are installed, especially the little L shaped brass spring on top of the black magnet retainer. Its best to just remove the black retainer by pulling it straight up and then setting it on the table with the spring in tact. Once you have the magnet carrier in hand you can remove magnets in one of two ways. You can very carefully remove the plate from behind the magnets and then push the magnets out with a soft object or you can get a very sharp edged pocket knife and carefully pry the magnet(s) out from the top. Take care when doing this not to remove the chromed coating on the magnets, this coating protects the magnets from the elements. When you go to put the reel back together, assuming you get this far :) the trick to getting the slider meshed with the spring is to push the slider to zero and place the side plate down on the reel so the screw holes line up. Press fairly firmly but DON'T try to force it closed at the top, you'll break the slider. When you have it placed so everthing lines up and you feel the pressure of the top spring, very slowly slide the slider back towards eight until you feel it slip off the spring. As soon as it does, STOP! Now press the side plate all the way on and move the slider back to zero. All's that's left is to put the screws back in.
Polarity and spacing: It is very important that you have your magnets arranged in a NSNS or SNSN polarity to get the full flux from your magnets. It's also important to have the magnets set side by side to get the full effect although you can play with pulling one away from the other(s). For example, lets say three magnets installed side-by-side is a little too slow for you but with only two installed it's a little to fast, you can try moving a third magnet over a hole leaving an empty space between the other two. Another option to further fine tune your spool speed would be to go with a slightly heavier oil viscosity, say from yellow label RF to the red label, Reel X or some other heavier oil. In fact, for fishing applications this would be the preferred action to take because the heavier oil will stay in the bearings a little longer requiring less maintenance.
Spool balancing or balancing your line on the spool: For this one I will refer you to Neil Mackellow's fine site over in the UK since he's one of the ones who taught me how to do it: Neil Mackellow on reel tuning, the spool balancing tip is at the bottom of the page but there's also lots of other great stuff over there.
Another trick for level winds: I took Blaine Osborne's advice and put a little graphite powder on the end of the clicker/LW gear where it rides against the left side plate bushing mentioned earlier. This further reduces friction on the CS Mags and increases spool speed.
Upgrades: The L/W bearing kits we offer adds a 4th bearing to the reel that can help speed up the CS Mags even more and makes them a little smoother casting. I'm putting Reel X and Speed X on the level wind worm gear and in the L/W bearing as it seems to hold up to the elements better. I install Smoooothie drag washers to beef the drags up a bit and smooth them out. Another upgrade I really like in the CS Mag reels is the addition of HS 6.3:1 gears for throwing metal, plugs, etc., where a hi-speed retrieve can be a real plus. The stainless HS gears are even better IMO, especially for heavier duty work. For whatever reason these things are really smooth and feel tighter than the std. or HS brass gears but there is a petty good price difference between the two and the brass gears work just fine. You may also choose to add a power handle to your CS or a dual paddle handle to your CT depending on your needs. In fact, you may find this was the best upgrade you've made. Replacing your std. factory spool bearings with ABEC 7 rated precision bearings is also an option that many feel improves performance; at the very least they will probably make your reel smoother and quieter but I'm still not sold that they'll increase your distance. You can find all of these upgrades as well as custom reels that include these upgrades in our Online Store under Reel Candy and under Conventional Reels in the Reel Section.
Maintenance tip: DO NOT put drops of oil down the drive gear shaft from under the handle cap, it will run straight into the drag washers and render them near useless. The axle that the drive shaft runs on should be lightly greased, not oiled. Anything that requires oil vs. grease in the right side plate should be lightly and very carefully oiled. It seems any excess oil in there or the spool bearings will find its way into the drag washers or brake blocks.
Try some of these suggestions and let me know how they work for you.
Tres
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